THIS SEASON THE INDIA BASED INTER NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION DESIGN (INIFD) IN ASSOCIATION WITH THE LONDON SCHOOL OF TRENDS(LST) PRESENT THIER COLLECTIONS.
INIFD WITH OVER 35,000 STUDENTS HAS REVOLUTIONISED DESIGN EDUCATION IN INDIA, KEEPING ON TOP OF TODAY’S RAPIDLY CHANGING DYNAMICS OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY. INIFD IS THE LARGEST NETWORK OF DESIGN INSTITUTES IN THE WORLD SPREAD OVER 7 COUNTRIES AND 3 CONTINENTS, INIFD OFFERS WORLD CLASS EDUCATION FACILITIES WORLDWIDE HELPING TO STAY STEPS AHEAD IN FASHION AND DESIGN EDUCATION. IT IS THE WORLD’S FIRST EDUCATIONAL FACILITY TO COMPLETELY DIGITALISE EDUCATION ALONG SIDE ITS CLASSROOM-BASED CURRICULUM. THE CAMPUS IN LONDON IS RUN BY LONDON SCHOOL OF TRENDS, WHICH IN ITSELF IS A PREMIER FASHION SCHOOL LAUNCHED IN 2012. THEIR ETHOS IS TO NURTURE THE TALENT AND CREATIVITY OF ITS STUDENTS AND HAS RESULTED IN THE MOULDING OF THE FUTURE FASHION TALENT. THE LST HAS CLOSE RELATIONS WITH GLOBAL INSTITUTIONS AND EXCLUSIVELY WITH INIFD IN ASIA. THROUGH PROJECT BASED ASSIGNMENTS AND PRACTICAL HANDS ON TRAINING, STUDENTS ARE PREPARED FOR A REAL CAREER IN THE FASHION AND DESIGN WORLD.
The “50 shades of Stardom” cocktail wear collection has been inspired by the fear of losing power. The collection consists of fitted and flared silhouettes, digitally printed psychedelic faces and a colour palette of vintage pastels grey colours. It is embellished with recycled-plastic sequin embroidery, fringes made of beads while the layering sheer fabrics give a shadow effect. “50 shades of Stardom” is made up of fabrics such as satin, georgettes and net which can be seen in the long sequined trousers, gowns and short cocktail dresses.
The inspiration behind the “The Ugly Journey” collection is the global warming and its impact on the environment. The synergy between the colours of planet Earth - shades of blue,green,grey,red and white and the modified Japanese shibori and Kantha (Indian embroidery) techniques result in a ready-to-wear, casual collection that consists of flared and boxy tops as well as asymmetrical dresses and skirts. Frayed edges and distresses details add a streetwear feel to “The Ugly Journey”.
The designer used gender equality as a source of inspiration for the “Shall We Sync” collection which is recognisable by its hippie style and loose fitted silhouettes. Rope embroidery, checks weave and metal chips techniques were used on fabrics such as organza, linen and check fabrics to create this line. The colour palette includes ice blue, burgundy, violet, ochre yellow and grey. The collection is characterised by an unusual fabric – Kota doria – which is one of the finest weave fabric made in Kota-Rajasthan in India.
This quirky casual wear collection called “Journey of a Free Soul” takes its inspiration from the peculiarities of Indian lifestyle and culture. The silhouettes are semi-fitted, flared and oversized to resemble the drapes and layers that both men and women wear in India. They are further enhanced by elegant bead and sequin work and shades of pastel pink, yellow, mint green and blue. Prints are a re-occurring theme in this collection- the Limbu mirchi print, believed to protect from evil spirits, the peacock print which is the Indian national bird, the cutting chai print – a famous Indian term for ordering half of cup of tea and the cricket accessories print dedicated to the Indian love for cricket.
The designer describes the collection “RHYTHM” as a dreamy eveningwear collection because of the rhythm and flow that is highlighted throughout the entire collection with its long gowns, tiers and layers. Featured techniques include 3 Dimensional embroidery and deep dying techniques for threads of tassels which was used to create waterfall effects in the garments. The purest river in India – the River Ganga – is the inspiration behind the Spring/Summer 18 edition as it conjures the image of high power of enlightened thought and the individual’s place in the universe. All the colours used in this collection have a meaning: red represents love towards God, grey represents nature, white represents peace, orange represents good luck, green represents freshness, pink represents fragrance, black is represented in the Indian language safety and beige represents neutrality.
The “Jagoi” collection was inspired by the Manipuri dance which is an Indian classical dance form from the North-East of India. The falling and flared silhouettes show the grace of the Manipuri dance and the sheer fabrics such as crepe give an overall delicate feel to this collection. As the inspiration comes from a classical dance form which is inspired by a goddess called Radha Krishna, the dancers, dressed up as Radha Krishna, and their hand gestures make up the print. Natural colours were used for this season and they represent the diversity of India.
Mahek Gala’s “The Demonic Angel” for SS18 showcases the conflicting nature of human beings which can be mostly seen in the contrasting colours used for this collection such as brown and beige, white and black, red and pastel blue. The designer brings an innovative element in the line by layering different fabrics – organza, leather, striped fabric and scalloped lace – which complements perfectly the A-line and bodycon silhouettes.
“A Buddha’s tale” is a ready-to-wear collection mainly comprised of drapes that represent India and a religion that people from this country believe in, Buddhism. The colours that run through this collection are taken from the attire of Buddhists and can be seen in the shades of maroon, red, orange, yellow, green and pink. The fabrics woven from the North-Eastern Region of India were used as an inspiration for the prints, and while pinching and pleating have been used to create drapes, digital printing is also present in some garments. The fabrics used in this collection are different types of cottons and sheers.
The SS18 collection has a casual and informal feel to it with its mixture of classic colours, modern cuts and metallic prints. The story behind “A broken watch” was inspired by the mechanics of a watch, its needles and dials. Each print and colour used in the collection symbolises the complexity of the item itself – silver the mechanical parts, golden the numbers, black the needles and numbers and copper the mechanism. The shapes are loose and flowy and are embellished with intricate embroidery. Separates, long dresses and straight-cut trousers in different kinds of fabrics such as satin, organza and silk are the styles that characterise this SS18 collection.
The aesthetic of Michelle D’Souza collection for SS18 can be defined as a combination of active wear with colourful flowers print and a bold, preppy look. It is inspired by the Valley of flowers in Uttarakhand which is known for its meadows of endemic alpine flowers which resulted in floral prints, stripes and 3D applique work on feminine active wear. The relaxed shapes and silhouettes are in tones of blue, purple, pink, red, orange, yellow and white in that way reminding of the innumerable flowers of the region. Cotton satin, pleated fabric, mesh and sport stripes dominate the collection.
The bright, young and easy-to-wear collection, “Triumph of the Spirit”, takes its inspiration from a typical cowgirl of the Western ranches and has an added Indian touch to it when it comes to technique and current trends. The shapes vary from midi skirts to dresses, cowboy shirts as well as trousers in fabrics such as organza, georgette, crepe and suede and decorated with different types of embroidery. The colour palette for the SS18 season consists of yellow, green, blue, pink, brown and beige.
The inspiration behind the “Heroic Bohemian” collection is the Channakeshaya temple. The aesthetic is bold with playful colours showing powerful structured looks and large embroidery patterns of the tribal art from the temple, extracted from the Lambani art. A unique type of overlapped collars is noticeable and the inner seam isn’t visible in the collection giving away a feel of a gypsy bohemian style that has structured, but voluminous shapes. For the colour palette inspiration, the designer uses matte texture complimented with light green, light blue, maroon, yellow, red, cream and orange colours.
Inspired by the song “So far away” from the South Korean boyband BTS, the collection “Dream a little, dream of me” leads to a story of a workaholic and stressed woman whose childhood memories save her when he suffers from a mental breakdown. The beauty of the collection is the dreamy feel, given by the water colour bleeding effect and ombre dying. The layers in the garments unfolds the stories long forgotten; they represent the layers of memories in her subconscious mind. The prints over the delicate sheer fabric show the fragile memories of her childhood. The collection shows her depression being defeated by her good old memories, but in a subtle way. Featured styles include jumpsuits with fitted bodice and loose fit bottoms, layered A-line and i-line dresses, layered loose fitting top with fitted pants.
The “Red Fort to Red Bus” collection was inspired by the visual journey experienced by a traveller during a trip from India to London. The Indian heritage with brocades, Javanese Batik dye print with kick flare trousers, layered fluted dresses, culottes and boxy sheer tops return to the retro 1970s silhouettes. Rich and royal fabrics – brocade, sustainable denim, organza, crepe- were used for SS18 as well as the BATIK technique for creating images. The colours that run through the collection each have a meaning. Red represents landmarks such as red forts, red buses, and the famous UK telephone booth. Beige and black with a golden texture represents rich Indian weaving and blue represents rivers.
Isha Jain’s main inspiration for the Indian Chilvalry collection is Gayatri Deyi, a feminist and graceful woman that has made a remarkable impact on the fashion and beauty industry. The aesthetics are personified by the the use of regal and marvellous fabrics and also by the fine, plush and brave colour palette of soft pastels. The enduring drapes, abiding A-lines and rectangular silhouettes are complimented with floral motifs and motifs found in royal architecture. What makes this collection unique and different is not just the handwork, but also the local Indian decorative fabrics.
The SS18 collection “MYSTIC NATION” is inspired by the art of the city of Lucknow, from the medieval details of Mughal decoration in architecture and the techniques used to decorate walls and ceilings of monuments. This collection has a romantic and glamorous aesthetic portrayed by the dark bases used with surface ornamentation of contrasting bright colours. The colours for SS18 are shades of blue, shades of grey and tan brown for fabrics. Yellow, white, black and orange are used for embellishments of beaded and thread embroideries. The collection showcases boxy-silhouettes that are loose-fitted, symmetrical and A-line.
The flavour, colour and unique energy of the city of Banaras was the inspiration for the “Eternal Glam” collection. The combination of purity and divinity of the city specifically influenced the line which then translates into outfits embroidered with Banaras’ gold and silver Zari thread handwork. The collection is designed with a creative blend of Indian textiles with western silhouettes to create a unique style which speaks of an attitude that is refined, fashionable and universally appealing. The styles found in this collection are column dresses, long and loose trousers and ankle length dresses in silk jersey, shimmer, organza and till.
“Mesmerising Metallics” brings out glamour and sensuality through weaves of Indian heritage and fabric embellishments in the form of the Fardi ka kaam and Chikankari techniques. The inspiration for this collection is the night sky with stars being represented by metal work and the night clouds by white thread work. The colour palette gives away sophistication – blue and green, femininity and elegance - peach, confidence – grey and sensuality – wine colour. Silhouettes that run through the collection are wedge, box, rectangular and A-line silhouettes.
The SS18 collection “Tribe Glam Chic” highlights the Bodo traditional motifs and handloom technique in aesthetic western garments showcasing the natural beauty of the North-Eastern region of Assam. The designer used Handloom art in the form of Dokhona, a Bodo traditional dress as the main inspiration and created different styles of dresses with a contemporary aesthetic. What makes this collection unique is the sustainable fabric Eri silk, a valued strong, supple fabric mostly produced in the North-Eastern part of India. The original colour of the fabric was kept, while the embroidery and motifs were done in red, green, yellow, orange and blue.
The designer takes its inspiration for the “Voiceless Rays” collection from the city palace of royal Rajasthan and its impressive gates and uses shades of green, purple and ivory tones within the collection to showcase the beautiful carvings of the gates. The green gate is covered by the Lehariya pattern and the pink gate depicts the winter season. The collection features structured A-line and bodycon styles with drapes and flairs made all in sustainable fabrics such as satin, cotton satin, linen satin and paper silk and embellished with the geometric and floral prints. Fine resham work with zardosi dabka and crochet has been used to create this collection.
The “GRAFFITO PUTLI” collection was inspired by the Graffiti Art and Kathputli (puppet) Art of Rajasthan. Both Graffiti and Puppets are tools to bring out human emotions in a spray of hybrid colours and combinations splashed showcasing the outrageous mood unbridled by the mind. The theme itself reflects the true blend of Western and Indian Arts. The collection showcases “Western” Silhouettes in bright colours and is further enhanced with wool embroidery and traditional Bandhani print. The designer used sustainable techniques and fabrics including satin, denim, bandhani, Shiffon, Glaze, Satin and Crepe.
This SS18 collection called “Indian Kaleidoscope” inspired by the festivals of India, can be considered as an expression of Indian essence and vibrancy. It is a depiction of the classic Indian festival tale, but the designs are functional, current and contemporary. The silhouettes are floor and calf-length as they were created using a Japanese subtraction pattern cutting technique. The colour palette for this season symbolises love, purity, happiness, the tradition and cultures of India. The garments are made of silk linen blend fabric mulberry silk, crepe silk, pure silk and cotton polyester blend shimmer fabrics.
Gagandeep Singh Tuli
The inspiration for the “Feather of the Dawn” collection were the poems written by Sarojini Naidu. The main styles used for SS18 are high-low dresses, light trench coats and floor-length gowns with a lot of sheer elements and feather, sequin and stone embellishments. The collection was coloured up with lime yellow, peach, pink, black and emerald green and the fabrics used for this season are organza and tulle.
This ready-to-wear collection was inspired by the story of Paan Singh Tomar, carrying the idea of women empowerment and gender inequalities. The balloon shape dress, mini skirt, bomber jacket and cargo pants give a feel of confidence and armour to the woman. Inspired by the army theme, there is camouflage and graphic prints and khaki, green, black, wine and white colours dominate this collection. Fabric layering technique and surface work with stones and beads complete these fierce looks.