Summer usually means an unflattering combination of beach bum and hippy but Belle Sauvage have got summer dressing down pat. An air of aggressive sexuality permeated the collection, but rather than brash availability the design duo offered up a vision of femininity which was cooly distant. Angular shoulders and pointed, jutting hips gave a defiant assertion of personal space, dizzying digital prints looked like they would stun and hypnotise prey.
Even the humble lipstick was turned into a dominant phallic symbol while detailed images formed shapes akin to Magic Eye pictures (when is someone going to bring these back?) and other prints featured shapes that were layered and mirrored till your eyes bled! Block colour dresses in leather and stiff fabric had an armour-like touch and featured shield-like sculptural bosoms.
Despite all the angular shapes other printed pieces in floaty fabrics provided a hint of softness and would be equally at home on holiday as in the city. Belle Sauvage really excelled at their swimsuits, they might be one of the few designers who can successfully bring high fashion to the beach. A high waisted brief was complemented by a gorgeously sculpted bustier bikini top, and a one-piece provided instant impact. Other standout pieces included a panelled trench, with sting-shaped layers and spiky prom dress which was anything but debutante.
Images: David Coleman