The tone at the Louise Amstrup presentation this afternoon was a sombre one, as visitors mingled around a dimly lit display space and nibbled on liquorice candies. The collection, which was inspired by the French Film “The City of Lost Children” – a dark fantasy tale which cautions against the damaging elements of contemporary society - paid homage to the simple and clean silhouette with emphasis being placed on the harmony of light and dark.
Full-length woollen coats in navy and black were modernised with curved shoulders and wide sleeves with piping detail. Silk mini dresses with sheer sleeves in black and navy, and jersey shift dresses with Breton stripes tapped into many of the key trends for A/W 2010. The most exciting aspect of the collection was undoubtedly Amstrup’s effective use of print. The pattern used was an oil in water design which married a variety of bold colours - shocking pink, scorching orange and citrus yellow.
Another surprise was the use of feathers in a few of the dresses, also on the shoulders of a chiffon printed leotard that was arguably the most inspiring piece of the entire collection. The genius behind these striking prints was how they were used in such a restrained way. Rather than drowning a garment in the print from collar to cuff, the prints were used sparingly - the result was a bold and focused collection, whose colours and fabrics were beautifully balanced and far more complex than the simple silhouettes suggest.
Words: Jessica Whyte
Image: Kristen Blow