For the first time in London Fashion Week history, eleven BA Fashion students from the Swedish School of Textiles showcased their graduate collections on the Vauxhall Fashion Scout runway. Each and every collection was oozing with creativity and imagination, with a strong focus on styling and composition.
Sara Anderson opened the show with her collection entitled ‘Prepositions’. An explosion of polka dots, structural head pieces and glitter galore.
Johanna Milvert delivered a beautiful menswear collection of warped bulbous knits and paper bag tailoring in autumnal pale stone and burn orange hues.
Delightfully delicate jerseys and lightweight cottons in taupe and ivory tones made for a minimalistic display designed by Elin Klermar.
Stina Randstad’s collection was playful and ethnic inspired with African style prints, sequins and wools. A cocoon structure of geometric blue knits with a yellow pom pom trim closed the show.
For Emile Johansson’s collection, the clue is in the name ‘Structure Is Everything…’ Johansson experimented with origami-like detailing framing necklines and edges as well as intricate fabric manipulation in the form of pleats, folds, tucks and ruches.
A mélange of textures with heavy wool pleated skirts in grainy greys mixed with earthy orange and red reminiscent of monks robes were presented alongside playful gold quilted shorts and draped pleated metallics, by Jennie Siljedahl.
Elin Sunding continued the show with brush stroke silk prints painted onto cobweb ripped trousers, crop-tops and dresses.
Ellinor Nilsen’s models were masked in magazine cut clippings as shredded voluminous shapes in taupe and black like layered snapped elastic bands bounced down the catwalk. Fat braided yarn attached to the head fell about, whilst a crumpled plastic looking fabric digitally printed with body hair stood out.
Charlotta Mattson created what was probably one of my favourite outfits from the entire show: A black soft leather jacket with a striking structural collar, worn over velvet wide-leg tapered trousers. The rest of the collection consisted of casually draped grey asymmetric coats and quirky mirrored and perspex geometric jewellery.
David Soderlunds muted florals prined on grey jersey and indigo denim was a refreshing menswear collection, accessories with insects and animal parts trapped in clear resin . A trailing black scarf like a split horse tail accented a rust orange bomber perfectly.
Helena Quist created contemporary quilted ponchos and loosely draped kaftans complete with printed geometric patterning and Arabian inspired headscarves.
Words : Sarah Barlow & Lara Angol
Images: Nicole trundleIllustrations : Vic Riches