Asger Juel Lersen provided a show-stopping finale for our week of spectacular shows. His collection of daring, audacious garments and jewellery is exactly what we love to see from innovative designers using their creative genius to shock and excite us. Each look was bold, with some styling producing a wearable concept and others creating a work of art.
 
The collection entitled ‘Uncle Sam’ had a variety of American flags in washed out burgundy and navy, then in black and white leather. The use of the stars and stripes in combination with the dark theme makes reference to Asger’s negative perception of the American Dream. The use of leather, zips, chains, steel, long spike studs, crucifixes, high collars, straight jackets and bones threw the audience into Camden high street or an old Victorian work house.

The first look consisted of a long, black over coat with an extended asymmetric collar covering the lower face. There were swathes of leather whipping from one shoulder and the model wore a top hat appliquéd with large crucifixes. The hat had a chain hanging down and around the chin, which was a common feature on hats in the show. There were garments that wrapped around the body engulfing the torso in leather and fastenings. Then there were pieces that left little to the imagination with thighs and midriffs on show through corseted gaps in leather and denim. The show contained a happy medium between avant-garde costumes and wearable items such as large cowl neck knitwear and bronze washed jeans. The accessories highlighted the Native American chief influence with their Aztec necklace and feathered headpiece. A small splash of colour was found in the boots where Asger collaborated with ‘Underground Footwear’. The huge sack-like, back-packs were a highlight of the show and a desirable, trend driven piece this season.

The models had religious or tribal tattoos, some real; others painted on. This added to each character’s defiant grunge quality. They would all have been at home as a character in a gothic but glamorous and possibly homoerotic play, likewise a Tim Burton film.

Words : Charlotte Summers
Images : Lucas Seidenfaden

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