Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden
‘Mechanical failure’: machine noise rang through the room, eerie and piercing. The A la Disposition press release, illustrated with complex engineering diagrams, promised pieces inspired by the mechanics of flight and propellers. A precise scientific theme for the husband and wife duo, Lynda and Daniel Kinne, famed for their perplexing construction.
 
An opening camel piece was so complex, so deconstructed, it was virtually indecipherable: was it a coat, a dress, or separates?  A full cap sleeve framed narrow long sleeves while lapels fell in waterfall folds over the chest: drapery and layers concealing any telltale seams.

Voluminous mastery prevailed in pantaloon style trousers and pencil skirts. Multiple pattern pieces formed a repetition of stiff 2D angular flaps that stood at right angles over the hips of the former, alluding to a 3D fullness. On the latter, tight gathers forced the iridescent taffeta to billow out in cloudy shapes.
 
This gathering technique grew over shimmering yellow and royal purple sleeveless dresses, while on others flat wide pleats curved out from the waist, hugging the figure. Blood red linings peaked out from armholes.

If the sweeping lines of fullness represented a propeller in motion, the contrasting severity of the collection’s tailored shirts were the clean mathematical lines found on a still propeller.
Strict Edwardian like shirts in monochrome stripes juxtaposed the iridescent taffeta. Pressed spiked collars, and intricate scarf like collars buttoned high at the neck. Leg of mutton sleeves broke away from the austere silhouette, while bondage like straps regained control again on a moss green tweed jacket.
 
Though always present, volume seemed restrained throughout the collection. Freedom was allowed for the finale dress: clouds of moss green taffeta billowed across the body and down the back.

Backstage post-show I spoke to Daniel Kinne, one half of the A la Disposition duo:

Congratulations on a great show; how do you feel it went?
Fantastic. I’m just ecstatic, perfect.

Explain to me the inspiration, the focus, for the collection?
We’re going with a great structure yet still airy kind of combination, which is always hard for designers like us who use a lot of construction and pattern making to achieve silhouettes. We really focused on lightening that up [the construction]. This has been our most successful summer collection, for a couple of seasons.
 


Text: Natasha Slee

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