|Photography by Magdalena Golembiewska|
Asger Juel Larsen and T.Lipop are polar opposites when it comes to fashion and this made for a delightfully interesting joint show. After Asger unleashed his fearless army (that encompassed everything from 90’s street wear to Camden Goths, leopard print, glittery creepers, horror masks, graphic lettering, skimpy pants and even chain mail antlers), T.Lipop released a wave of calm as his models breezed down the runway in a collection that was effortlessly cool and reassured. The audience was calmed and refocused, as we were encouraged to marvel at the subtlety and refinement of his craftsmanship.
T.Lipop’s first model strutted out onto the catwalk in a striking wide brimmed hat, which became a signature piece throughout the collection. The hats, whilst still alluding to a formal, gentlemanly style of dressing (a key theme in T.Lipop’s designs), came with an edgy cool. This set the tone for the entire collection: tailored ensembles were relaxed as shirts were long and untucked, or in bold retro prints, blazers worn over bare chests and tailored trousers worn with sandaled feet. The look was borderline hippy, but there was no sloppiness - colours were always coordinated thoughtfully matched, and the pitch-perfect tailoring came with a fine detailing that hinted at tradition. The result? Men who looked effortlessly cool and confidently masculine.
T.Lipop achieves a precise balance that reveals a maturity and self-assuredness in his work and translates to the wearer. It is this ability to make specific yet subtle changes that have strong impact that reveals the designer’s fearlessness. There were some quirky, theatrical elements that intrigued and inspired. For example, a cameral cow skin knee-length coat that exuded cowboy coolness, with oversized shoulders. A stunning long pale blue jacket with faint fringing at the hem hinted at Mexican smocks and looked beautiful. Indeed, the wide brimmed hats alluded to cowboys or field workers.
Lipop’s palette was also fairly restricted, with pales blues to navy and hints of orange, camel, white, stone and defining black. Some colours were mixed and some matched; outfits never became overcomplicated with more than three colour combinations and some were just one uniform colour. Again, this highlighted his confidence and ability. The palette along with the relaxed feel to his clothes are the first collection that I have seen that really evoked that warm, heady feeling of summer.
Text: Amy Lockwood