This season’s Merit Award winner Heohwan Simulation returns to Vauxhall Fashion Scout with his 3rdcollection titled “No Logo” continuing his journey with “The Decade Project”.
An eerily cool set of twins stomped down the catwalk opening the collection with a muted palette of chiffon and shapes that interlock like armour. The collection immediately reads cool, constructed and sleek with oversized jackets that add to the tough exterior of this still very feminine aesthetic. The audience including Susie Bubble of Style Bubble, full with anticipation for what this designer has to offer.

The literary work of Naomi Klein serves as the inspiration behind the designer’s latest spectacular, with the idea of hidden logos and factory workers as the concept of minimalism. His effortlessly clean lines bring together structural shapes that maintain their relaxed edge, using only hints of yellow and green to bring a fresh take on this new season. Citing Marc Bohan’s 1960s silhouettes and fabrics, the collection links the past with modernity that isn’t overstated; It’s no surprise he has been awarded this season’s Merit Award. Giving something to think about every time and taking the audience into his process; the models embody the pieces as the pieces embody the concept that sets his work apart from the superficial.

Punched leather and mesh takes the collection on a turn that marries the both the geometric shapes and light chiffon together. Originally studying menswear at the esteemed Royal College of Art and launching his womenswear label in 2010, his menswear background only adds to the intrigue of this designers work. Boyish shapes with oversized belts and transparent fabrics create a new look at femininity that isn’t over done, it’s the movement in this kind of balance that creates harmony in this collection.

A look at the history of fashion is what makes his work so genuine, seeing that today with all concepts from 60s shapes, literary work, and the political aspects of the unnamed factory workers of early the 20th century. The genius is bringing these concepts together so concisely, creating the minimal aesthetic Heo Hwan has become known for. Described by some as the best collection we’ve seen so far here today, this season’s Merit Award winner showed deserving of the title.

Text by Vanessa Omoregie (@wewearblack)
Images by Ryan Bater

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