Returning to Vauxhall Fashion Scout this season, the Swedish School of Textiles present Spring / Summer 2013 collections from their BA and MA graduates. Based in the textile capital of Sweden in the city of Boras, it is renowned for bringing forward interesting young designers as well as being the “place where creativity and technology meet”. Showcasing the best in innovative design, Swedish School of Textiles has been at the forefront of design that challenges fashion since their debut at Vauxhall Fashion Scout in September 2010. This season’s designers included: Daniel Larsson, Daniel Bendzovski, Ina Hjelte, Erik Josefsson, Johan Nordberg, Jonas Collberg, Josefin Mellander, Maria Hedmark, Greta Gram, Sofia Bahlner, Madelene Ericsson, Sara Lundberg, Linnea Bagander, and Andreas Eklof.

With a showcase of 14 young designers, there is always anticipation for this show, not knowing what to expect from this school of innovation and this time was no exception. The designers displayed talent and creativity of new levels from the conceptual to the beautiful constructed and minimal, there seemed to be no limits when it comes to what this group is capable of. Exploring ideas of body shape, form, trend stereotypes and material, the group touched on topics that created a buzz of genuine interest amongst the audience that made us think beyond aesthetics.

A collection of utilitarian jumpsuits and a nude colour palette, Daniel Larsson opened the show with a theme of men at work, dirt and soil, with some pieces displaying a use of unconventional materials that set the tone for the rest of the show.  Collections fromDaniel Bendzovski, Johan Nordberg, Sofia Bahlner, Madelene Ericsson, and Andreas Eklof displayed a conceptual take on fashion which included the use of paper as fabric and interesting themes. Whilst some threw back to the 90s exploring nature and digitalism with neon foxes and googly eyes, designer Ina Hjelte took a minimal response to shape, focusing on asymmetric shapes that revealed long legs and flashes of neon. Simple and minimal compared to the others, it stood out on its own with sheer on solid in a palette of greys, maroon and highlighter bright yellow. Taking minimal a step further nobody does it like Johan Nordberg who used cardboard and other unique materials to create looks that the garment shape at its most basic, it was both highly conceptual yet incredibly minimal at the same time.

The collections shown today took us through processes of design that brought fashion down its core looking at construction. The young designers at the Swedish School of Textiles reinvent our perception of what fashion is in a way that surprises us season after season.

Text by Vanessa Omoregie (@wewearblack)
Photography by Lauren Marsh

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