Bernard Chandran captured the essence of the modern woman at his AW14 showcase. Chandran translated an aesthetic clearly harnessed in menswear to create sophisticated, feminine silhouettes. The show opened with the illusion of a three piece suit which revealed itself to be an elegant all-in-one. “It’s all about the one look” explains Chandran, “the woman could be running the country or being a housewife… The garment speaks for itself”.
The essence of menswear worked into the finer details of Chandran’s statement pieces. Fuschia cocktail dresses were granted a masculine edge with waistcoat detailing whilst floor length leather coats communicated the authoritarianism of a modern and empowered woman. Chandran moved away from androgyny by innovative exploration of the breadth of freedom in women’s fashion. Traditionally masculine shapes were softened by a peplum lining or floor length, fitted sequin skirt in opulent golds.
Boasting a plethora of prestigious clients, Chandran is renowned for bringing the lens of a vibrant cultural background to his designs. Handwoven brocade was combined with leather and tubing to modernise a traditional print. The influence of the orient was clearly at work in a colour palette of fuschia, tan and cobalt blue which conveyed the vibrancy of the east. High collars and linear zips evoked Chinese kimonos which were modernised through combinations of contemporary fabrics. The designs thoroughly explored the many guises of the modern woman – shifting from high powered business woman to cosmopolitan socialite, Chandran’s vision was encapsulating.
By Lydia Smyth. (@LydiaRoseSmyth)
Photography by Oscar Scar