Inspired by images of refugees, Jamie Wei Huang’s AW13 collection is a lesson in structure and simplicity. As the catwalk begins, the importance of silhouette and texture becomes apparent, lines are clean and crisp and executed in stiff and stark fabrics giving an almost regimented feel to the runway. Zips and buckles feature heavily within Huang’s collection creating an awareness of enclosure and a sense of entrapment, this too is further reinforced by the use of masked hats which feature strongly throughout the collection. 

Models mouths are shielded as they are encased in their hats. Silhouettes are asymmetric and square cut adding interest to an oversized form. Although a strong feeling of masculinity is present throughout, this is beautifully juxtaposed with more fluid lines in trousers and pleated midi skirts, this contrast of masculine and feminine as well as the use of both light and heavy materials make for a stunning contemporary fusion. A minimal colour palette of dark blue tones, white, black and red with a hint of pink and grey is used within the collection, adding to the stark yet thoughtful mood which Huang so effortlessly creates.

A Central St. Martins graduate, Huang has been mentored by Stella McCartney and has had the opportunity to work under fashion greats Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane. This has no doubt aided her in her seemingly fluent ability to use her designs to create a dialogue with her audience. At the heart of Huangs AW13 collection is the sense of giving a voice and a character to modern women, she gives us both style and substance in abundance and the results are spectacular.


By Charlotte Muscat (@CharlotteLM9)
Images by Lepa Georgievska (@GeorgievskaLepa)

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