Last year she was our One to Watch and last season she was our Merit winner. This AW14 Yulia Kondranina still has what it takes to wow us. Kondranina fabrication and experimentation ability has previously amazed with her viscose fringed dresses and tiled crochet pieces. This Central Saint Martins graduate has a great creative vision and her collections are like no other.
In the extravagant Vestibule of Freemasons’ Hall Kondranina brought forward AW14 with a juxtaposition of rough frayed edges and soft delicate wools. An essence of winter weather was present with sparkling navy jumpers. A colour palette of black navy and white introduced the show in thick materials. Off the shoulder jumpers and slits added a soft feminine touch to the oversized androgynous pieces.
The turtleneck is here to stay as the designer featured a good few. However, what was added in neck length was taken from behind as exposed backs were recurrent throughout. The naked backs added a contemporary twist, as did the extra long sleeves and asymmetric dresses.
Arguably the best feature of the show though was the strapped dresses that appeared to be a cross between shoelaces and a straight jacket. Bursts of vibrant pinks blues and turquoises were introduced in zig zags and panels towards the end of the show. Kondranina seems to be in agreement with the majority of the AW14 designers that it’s going to be a colourful season.
Yulia Kondranina’s AW14 collection is less fluid than previous collections however still shows a strong example of an intersection between fashion art and sculpture.
By Emily Black, (@emilyy_black)
Images by Hannah McGee (@HannahMcG3e)