The sound of lapping waves and The Body Shop’s Fusion Water Lotus scent met attendees at Mariana Jungmann’s SS15 show ‘Yemanja’ Queen of the Ocean. Sea goddesses walked the catwalk in light-as-air fabrics, encrusted headpieces and soft tailoring, while every inch of them was adorned with metallic marine detailing.
Born in Brazil, Jungmann’s designs are a far cry from the bold colours her country is known for. Stone grey, sand white and glistening aquas were represented in laser-cut leather, subtly striped cotton and loose waterfall tailoring, which represented the unwavering strength of Yemanja. Knee-length waistcoats, flared-leg jumpsuits and silk shirts with pebble grey prints that faded away added structure to the oceanic collection.
Loose layering of floor-length split shirts over tailored trousers, soft nightshirts and hooded evening gowns in white silk looked desirable for summer climes, finished off with silver face lace on both hands and face, delicate nail chains and heels complete with 3D Perspex splash detail. Renaissance lace, a signature of Jungmann from her Brazilian childhood, also featured on sleeves and hemlines, while glistening pearls, gems and shells decorated crowns and fishtail plaits.
A combination of oversized mens nightwear, mermaid ethereality and 70s silhouettes, Jungmann’s collection is a stunning fusion of diverse influences that made the audience embrace a touch of delicacy in a world where minimal tailoring and pop-culture influences reign supreme. While designs were light and loose, Jungmann’s looks never appeared shapeless. White and nude jumpsuits inclined in at the waist, alongside fitted moss-green leather playsuits.
Jungmann’s cast of blonde sea creatures modelled a wearable collection of mythical beauty. From head to toe, Mariana’s mermaids are set to breathe a new lease of life into aquatic aesthetics.
By Isabella Silvers, Contributor, (@izzymks).
Photos by Elizabeth Hodson.