Chinese designer Lulu Liu opened the shows at Freemason's Hall this morning with a collection that was equal parts fresh and retro. Taking inspiration from the phrase "Play Design", Liu's collection explored "the line that is walked between self-actualisation and self-restraint."

As the house lights went up, Liu revealed a collection that was full of basic a-line silhouettes in the form of culottes, drapey tops, pencil skirts, capes and trench coats. The twist came in the form of the zips that deconstructed skirts, coats, tops and dresses at the waist, hem, sleeves and thigh-to creates slits. Added to this were bright flashes of maroon, and teal which accompanied the main colour palette of icy pastels including icy blue, mint and grey.

Lui's fabric choices also added to the dichotomy of the collection, showing woven leather swing-coats, snakeskin tops, tweed embellished with leather and woven camouflage.

The models who had strategically crimped hair-to appear untidy-and clean faces wore looks that were accessorised with ankle-strap booties and cat-eye sunglasses

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