We caught up with Head of Make Up, Lan Nguyen Grealis backstage at Fashion Scout this afternoon to get the low-down on todays make-up looks, here is what she had to tell us..
Hello Lan, can you tell us about the inspiration behind todays make up looks and how you achieved the final catwalk looks that we have seen so far?
Judy Wu was inspired by Shanghai lights so in order to reflect that in the make up, we went for a reflective skin look. Even though it was a natural look for the eye we also took a strong skincare approach in this look. We used the Body Shop sheer beautifying butter oil, we massaged that into the skin to make it really plump then we massaged in highlighter - everything was done using our fingers as the warmth of our hands made the skin very plump. Then its all about controlling where the highlight hits, so we added highlights just on the upper side of the cheekbone, the side of the temples, a little bit over the bow of the lips and also slightly on the t-zone. We finished off the models skin using face spritz spray over the surface to give it that extra shine. For the eyes we just used a stain, we used lip and cheek in new velvet nude, no.6 from the body shop. We used lipstick stains on the eyes and the lips and finished the lips with a high gloss for a very simple look that is reflective from different angles in the light, making for a modernistic feel.
For Apu Jan we created a striking, winged cat-eye make up look with a smokey eye but ensured that the look was not too sharp by making sure that they eyes were soft and rounded at the tips. We used two lips pencils as they are quite soft, we used mahogany and rosy red and to finish off we used some very berry colour crush over the top. The lips were very matte with a slight stain, keeping them very neutral and creating very high contours with a matte skin finish.
For Ones to Watch we wanted to go for a London feel but at the same time keep it to quite a luxury, modern finish. We went for beautiful skin, very groomed and created controlled highlights using powders and shimmers. The main accent which we used on the eyes was a graphic eyeliner under the eye, instead of just having it all black we broke it up. We had black undertones and then we used facelace in metallic along with a pale colour. We used lilacs, turquoise and pink pastel tones, the idea was that it worked against the skin tone of the models so for anyone who was dark skinned we used the opposite colour such as a yellow or bright turquoise.
What can we expect to see make up wise from Soojin Lee and Zeynep Kartal who will be hitting the Fashion Scout catwalk later today?
Soojin Lee’s brief to me was ‘Peace’ so this look is all about the strong woman focusing on the aftermath of WW2. We thought about it being a very restricted and regimented time and then looked to breaking that phase, so its about that journey of going from the hardness to the softness. We created our look by applying dark, dark eyes, using dark red tones. The look is very aggressive and is then softening up, we softened the eye by blending it out to soft pinks, to lilacs, to nothing, so again its all the eyes. The eyes are very deep set and we have gone from dark to light using The Body Shop lip stain.
Zeynep Kartals catwalk make up look is very, very minimal, very girl next door but still has an element of glam, very chic so again, we are just using nudes, taupe colours and some slightly darker tones just for warmth. In terms of grooming we’re just using eyebrow gel, its all based on reflective colours from Zeynep’s collection so we kept it very neutral.