After a successful and vibrant season of emerging talent the international element of Fashion Scout, and the varied choices of our designers from model casting to textile techniques, we're taking a retrospective look at AW18 at Freemasons' Hall.

As the fashion industry continues to implement sustainability, diversity and inclusivity, each season is a step toward a more positive environment. From encouraging the use of models from all aspects of life, widening the confines of representation and diversifying the stereotypical notions of beauty, to ensuring that international designers are given a platform to participate, Fashion Scout is proud to pioneer the movement. 

Fortie Label, the recipient of the coveted AW18 Merit Award, held a showcase that challenged the notions of traditional catwalk presentations. From props such as dollar bills and hair spray to a finale that saw models dance together, Essie Buckman, the founder of Fortie Label, bought her own perspective and attitude to her show.

We caught up with Essie ahead of her show, where she spoke about the lack of representation of women of colour in the fashion industry. By casting solely people of colour to walk in her show, the catwalk encouraged visibility of the marginalised group. The opening piece was a faux fur coat, in line with our no-fur policy, demonstrating that the use of faux fur can have the same aesthetic implications without the cruelty. 

Rocky Star, the Indian designer known for his embellished pieces and extensive client list, cast Olivia Buckland to close his show. Star’s collection was a dizzying mix of elegance and electrifying theatricality, and by casting a model outside of the confines of 'sample size', Rocky embraced a political aspect to the show. 

Fashion for Conservation was founded by three women dedicated to making a positive impact on the world through conservation-inspired couture. Nazanine Afshar (Art Director, Condé Nast), Samantha Zwicker (Wildlife Conservationist, Hoja Nueva) and Ava J. Holmes (Event Producer) combine their career knowledge and passions to create fashion campaigns that inspire consumers to make conscious decisions and engage fashion brands in investing in conservation while supporting endangered wildlife and indigenous peoples.

IT’S TIME TO REVERSE FASHION’S IMPACT ON THE PLANET FROM BEING THE SECOND MOST WASTEFUL INDUSTRY IN THE WORLD TO BEING A SOLUTION TO SOLVING SOME OF THE WORLD’S TOUGHEST ENVIRONMENTAL PROBLEMS.” 

Ava J. Holmes on TEDX Talks, FFC Co-founder

With a focus on sustainability and harbouring a relationship between ecological issues and the fashion industry, Fashion for Conservation is a leader in positive sustainable change. 

SEO Jakarta creates pieces that explore the potential of Indonesian traditional handwoven textiles, infusing them with a modern, urban aesthetic. The pieces in her collection use textiles developed alongside weavers that design and use traditional handwoven techniques. 

By juxtaposing these beautiful labour intensive fabrics with modern and technical fabric, she reimagines classic silhouettes and gives it her own quirky touch. A perfect fit for women who want to wear a piece of tradition without losing her modern flair. This charming mix of tradition and modernity shown on the catwalk in London brings new levels of inclusivity and gives due attention to the beauty and skill that goes into traditional pieces. 

This season has been another step for positive change within the industry, and at Fashion Scout we're committed to providing a platform for the innovators, creatives and progressives within the industry, whatever their specialism. 

 

 

 

 

Words by Annabel Waterhouse-Biggins

 

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