“We are here to salute the soil, the air, the sun, the rain, and the heart of the people of Baduy, Indonesia”.
The AW17/18 collection, comprised of 24 individual looks, and split into three different rotations shown twice, championed heritage and the honest simplicity of the ancient village of Baduy. It was also inspired in part by Indonesian folklore and focused on the theme of empowerment, according to Amanda Indah Lestari, Lekat's creative director.
In an immersive presentation, the models walked in amongst the watching audience, allowing for a closer look at the rustic fabrics. These were often layered, with formal, structured foundations made mobile by Amanda’s ability to connect tradition with innovation by playing with shape and using traditional techniques and textiles to facilitate this. Some outfits sat delicately, androgynous, but with complimentary, contrasting colours, bold, but light and flowing. Collaborator Billie Jacobina’s prints expressed the rich culture drawn on for the collection, helping “to tell the narrative”. The clothes were accompanied by accessories, notably colourful and confident hats, ranging from Amanda’s earliest collection (2013) to the capsule collection for Jakarta Fashion Week 2017.
Amanda was responsible for the designs themselves, and alongside Billie’s print techniques, used embroidery and traditional hand woven production, echoing her desire for sustainability: “There can be many, many, many colours in the clothes that I design. Yet, there can only be one mission: sustainable fashion”. The dynamic pair lived together for three months, Jacobina’s own collection, shown Friday, was also inspired by this visit. Amanda cited how she “tried to empower people from the village, to make them appreciate other cultures”. The array of different cultures represented and interspersed throughout the audience was a testament to this.
Fashion Scout was certainly given a creative and reflective insight into Indonesian culture, with the collection “a true mark of market-meets-mission”.
Words by Luke Connolly
Photography by Nicholas Kristiansen