This AW18 collection is another flawless display for Taiwanese-born designer Malan Breton. Blending cold leather and harsh silhouettes with sumptuous textures and audacious prints, Breton demonstrated once again that he is the master of fusing fabrics, tones and form.
A self-taught designer, Malan Breton has become the industry’s powerhouse following the opening of his first New York retail shop in 2007. The designer has since won a litany of awards from the FGI Rising Star 2016 award to the 2016 Taiwan Tourism award for contributions to fashion and media, and has recently become the official Taiwanese Tourism Ambassador. Now a Hollywood favourite, Breton has costumed Breaking Bad, Ru Paul’s Drag Race, MTV’s VMAs and the Super Bowl Halftime show.
Malan’s show was equally as entertaining as he played metallics and light against each other, using polished studs, patent leather jackets and crackle effect suits. The collection had a predominantly monochrome undertone with pops of colour in orange, navy and cherise.
The show was teeming with dialectics: hefty leather silhouettes blended with borg and cashmere sleeves, ethereal floral chiffons paired with burgundy leather corsets. Consistent with his desire to retain a playful mood in classically masculine menswear, Breton incorporates masculine smoking jackets in plum colours, with magnificent Taiwanese printed trousers. The designs also explicitly play with gender fluidity, with studded power shoulders on women, heavily printed and opulent fabrics on men, and matching suits for men and women.
Malan Breton’s AW18 collection is both exhilarating and wearable. Showcasing an eclectic mix of monochrome and bright colours, cold, studded leather and Taiwanese embroidery, and a blurring of gender, he certainly does not disappoint.
Words by Laura Cawdron
Photography by Nicholas Kristiansen