FJU Talents is an annual platform showcasing emerging designers from Taiwan. The capsule collections debuted to music from 37A and the models in each wore minimal make up styled with loose, natural waves and side fringes. Shun Yu kicked off proceedings with his grey and black tonal male pieces. His signature style is gothic chic with asymmetric silhouettes, which he faithfully honoured with edgy, structured shapes and angular patchwork detailing.
The mix of materials created texture and made the garments multi-dimensional. This SS18 collection was inspired by the concept of 'Hemalurgy', which is a way to gain power from pain and sacrifice. Displaced patterns, asymmetry and twists were used to demonstrate the concept of sacrifice and agony, whilst the three-denominational structures were used as a symbol of power. The show presented a soul distorted by addiction to power.
Ina HSU followed with a womenswear collection that featured feminine romance mixed with a dark distinction for young women with strong personalities. Bold colours and fun prints were complimented by the lightweight, free-flowing fabrics. Her SS18 collection is inspired by the Japanese Thriller 'The World of Kanako'. Ruffles, tassels, and pleating created texture and a playful femininity. The pieces included over-sized sleeves, capes and asymmetric hems. Ina’s affinity for contrasts and re-enacting confusion in dreams was communicated through the bright colour palette and unique print that served as a 'uniform' for the collection.
Shing Luen Liou was next with his menswear collection that was inspired by sculptor Ju Ming's "Tai Chi" and "Living World" series. Observing and contemplating cultural differences is the designer’s passion. He applies these interpretations of different cultures and social issues to his designs. A unique vision manifests itself in structured, geometric shapes and dimensional details. A colour palette of blue, white, red, pink and green ran throughout the collection. The pieces were paired with accessories such as caps and bags that complimented the boxy shapes of his garments.
Lastly, Yu Mei Huang begun an innovative collection with a deconstructed classic pinstripe shirt. Specialising in knitwear, the designer paired blue toned shirts with bright orange chunky knits that relied upon opposition to compliment each other. Taiwan's 1960's female white-collar workers and feminism inspired the SS18 collection. The feminine collection featured big coats, shirtdresses and blazers that all embodied the 'working woman.'The unique oversized sleeves and ruffles created texture and offered an updated approach to classic tailoring. A dark check print used on the trousers provided a complimentary contrast to the pinstripe pattern used throughout.
Words by Zoe Bennetts
Photography by Danny Woodward