The Autumn Winter 2018 collection Starsica electrified the audience with practical, everyday pieces while still cultivating an atmosphere of childish intrigue.
Korean-born Ike Seungik Lee, the owner and designer of the distinguished brand Starsica, first studied sculpture at the Seoul National University before attending an MA in Fashion at Kingston University. After an impressive performance at Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch show last season, the designer returned to the Grand Temple with a bang.
Taking inspiration from Greek tragedies, the models performed and danced down the catwalk, with waved eyebrows and heavily rouged eyes and cheeks. Lee also constructs faux fur skirts and jumpers with Greek motifs constituting an avant-garde yet feminine theatricality. Alongside the motifs, the Greek theme continues with sweatshirts and jackets scalloped, contoured or angled like romantic, Greek architecture.
The fusion of his Seoul heritage and British training is personified in animated bursts of pastel colours alongside classic Prince of Wales check. This synthesis carries forward throughout his collection, coupling kooky coffin and birdcage handbags with well-proportioned peplum sleeves and hems, keeping the tone of his work youthful yet tailored.
The garments are all intricately sculpted with delicate chiffon ruffles, an angelic gold feathered blouse, and fishtails constructed from exaggerated layers of blue tartan. The silhouettes tell a tale of two stories experimenting with gender fluidity; sumptuously feminine dresses accompany gothic arched, masculine and panelled suits.
Words by Laura Cawdron
Photography by Nicholas Kristiansen and Deborah Smith