LFW Day 1 - Ones To Watch : Tze Goh

Tze Goh’s first show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout as part of ‘Ones to watch’ was just as stunning and sophisticated as it was anticipated. The atmosphere was set with an oriental pipes and drums soundtrack. The heavy structural silhouettes, uniform royal blue and shades of grey represented Tze Goh as a very mature aesthetic.

The collection consisted of dresses, jackets and waistcoats and tailored trousers with patterns pieces that looked as though they had been manipulated from a classic suit then transformed into their forward thinking avant-garde profile.  Each piece was striking in terms of its strong structural presence combined with a strict block of colour. Tze Goh has managed to make the material look solid and robust like a sculpture and at the same time entirely wearable.

Coats had high collars grew out of square shoulders. The sleeves and lapels often folded and twisted, then rose out of unexpected places. A mohair cape with bell bottom sleeves protruded from the hip creating a dramatic line. There were ponchos which folded from the neck and became a flowing body of felt. In some pieces the felt appeared to be one huge piece magically moulded across and over the body as seams were close to invisible. The lines of each garment were impeccably clean and sharp which supported the uniform aesthetic.
 New York Fashion Week showed Royal Blue and the 50’s silhouette as huge trends for the AW 11 season. Tze Goh’s pieces took these trends and blew them out of the water by pushing them to new structural limits. With many boundary pushing designers choosing to expose flesh and body parts it was refreshing to witness Tze Goh putting an emphasis on the full clothing of the body and concentration on the garment construction.
An enormous well done to Tze Goh for a highly successful and inspirational first show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout. We look forward to seeing the structural wonders you produce as your career expands and blossoms.

Words : Charlotte Summers
Photo : Ezzidin Alwan
Illustration 1 : Andy Bumpus
Illustration 2 : KELLYANNA