LFW Day 6 MENS - Ones To Watch : C/BRUERBERG

 Named Oslo Fashion Week’s ‘Debutant Of The Season’ in 2010, Camilla Bruerberg’s AW 11 collection was a strong graduation for the budding designer. The first look to emerge was a boyish bomber jacket which featured a both haphazard and detailed collage of trainers in varying perspectives. Images of soles and perferations littered the surface, whilst below, slick black polyester tracksuit bottoms tucked into colourfully printed socks referenced chav culture. A train of boxy t-shirts, from slightly over-sized to poncho-like with volume, each flaunted Camilla’s sensitivity to knitwear. Many of these played with the stripe and contour, a classic in menswear design. Though by alternating thickness in the weave of each individual stripe, from piled to sheer, Camilla impressively achieved a graphic boldness despite the delicacy of the knit process. 

Chunkier less sensitive knits appeared in both the collection and the styling. A jumper in a jumbo weave was almost painterly in it’s composition, reminiscent of an artists palette smudged with colours. The same thick knit was seen braided in the hair of one model. A long sleeve top with grey woven cuffs popped, printed all-over with a blurry geometric motif resembling a dated arcade machine graphic and washed out like a child’s favorite spaceship bedsheets. This was overlaid with a white chiffon, so skeletal it looked sprayed on, in keeping with the contrast between the bold and the slight. 

Throughout the show models sported trousers in a casual tracksuit bottom silhouette or legging style. Treading the catwalk shoeless, they wore playful socks printed to appear as though they were trainers with each look. When asked, the young designer confirmed ‘the collection was inspired by childhood. The naive contrast between childhood and grown ups’ and revealed ‘sneakers we’re actually a source of inspiration for the print and colours’. Overall a happy and tactile collection.

Words : Lara Angol
Images : Lucas Seidenfaden