The Daily Review – Tuesday
|Joanne Hynes by Lucas Seidenfaden|
Tuesday saw the final day of womenswear shows at VFS. The result? A jam packed schedule and an endless parade of accomplished and assured collections. A La Disposition kicked of proceedings with ‘Mechanical Failure’, a clever combination of complex structures and lighter-than-air fabrics, which was, as designer Daniel Kinne observed backstage, “our most successful summer collection”. This was swiftly followed by Elisa Palomino’ s collection, which borrowed stylistic elements from whimsical Victorian fairy-tale paintings and centuries old Chinese motifs to create delicate dresses that echo a vanished way of life.
The Vestibule provided a suitably dramatic backdrop for Inbar Spector’s designs. Dramatic silhouettes, rose gold and metallic laser-cut leathers and acres for frothy tulle, dominated her collection, yet the overall effect was punk tinged rather than saccharine sweet. The leather story led neatly onto Joanne Hynes whose eclectic colour clash was tempered by Sixties trapeze shapes and quirky appliqué detailing, and plenty of leather. These madcap creations were in stark contrast to Oliver Ruuger’s ‘sculptural products’. Reworking the standard uniform of a stereotypical British businessman (think umbrella, briefcase, bowler hat), Ruuger’s piece aim to convey emotion, often “a feeling of fear or uncomfortableness’.
VFS veteran Georgia Hardinge presented a cubo-futurist inspired collection that saw square box buns paired with considered geometric contours. The colour palette – dominated by washed out pastels and faded greys – was lifted with striking accents of orange. The focus on emerging talent continued with F.A.D (Fashion Awareness Direct) where the overall Sabine Bindere made a statement with her red black and white hooded dress.
Bunmi Koko presented the last collection of the day. Her Sirens came clad in ocean inspired hues, the softness of floaty kaftans anchored neoprene pieces and laser-cutwork. With Beverley Knight and ex Sugarbabe Keisha Buchanan gracing the front row, the designer took her final bow to a rapturous reception. That closed the womenswear shows…who knows what MAN day will bring?
Text: Victoria Loomes