Florian Jayet Spring Summer 2012 at Fashion Mode

Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden

Illustrations by Kellyanna

The first model appeared to soft atmospheric music with only a slight drumming and looked fiercely down the runway. Her strong makeup around the eyes and mouth was smudged and the hair was flat but with lots of backcombed volume.

The look was typical of Florian’s usual sculpted silhouettes: a bright white jump suit, which followed and hugged the female form in a very flattering way. Yet, even in this first piece it is also suggested that he is moving away from this aesthetic, marked by a fluid cape falling from the shoulders.

As the collection developed this transition became more evident.  Soft gathered skirts on the ultra feminine white mini dresses had a playful feel but still remained structured around the waist and a white and cream pink jumpsuit had draping fabric around the chest

A loose reworked kimono style top referenced the Japanese culture and clothing - the inspiration for this collection and was cinched in at the waist in the traditional form with wide tie belt.

A break in models appearing on the catwalk and the change in music signalled a change in mood of the collection. So far it felt quite ladylike: luxurious white jumpsuits and shiny-ridged jackets with gaping sleeves. The beat became stronger and the tune fast paced. And along came a futuristic Japan. The girls walked at a quicker pace in dresses, reminiscent of the first half of the collection but they had been deconstructed and revamped. Cut out panels in the white dresses had been replaced with colourful lace inserts of green, yellow, purple and red – a direct reference to a typical geisha colouring. With every dress the coverage of the bright lace grew. The finale was a fantastic full-length dress in the lace with a large slit up the back of the skirt and down the back of the model.

I distinctly remember the accessories in this collection. Small chain arm bracelets, chain mail draped over the forehead and particularly covetable was the metal and chain garter, captivatingly layered over white trousers. These together with the demon like faces of the models, toughened the pure, polished collection.

It was a wearable marriage of traditional Japanese aesthetics and feminine shapes while giving us a glimpse into the future.  

Text: Rosanna Cole 
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