Izmaylova Spring Summer 2012

Made In Chelsea's Amber Atherton on the front row

Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden

We had a teasing clue placed in the middle of the catwalk at Izmaylova Spring Summer 2012. A still life comprised of battered and worn suitcases and a bench.

Loud clock chimes filling the large hall introduced it. Next: the sound of passing people perhaps recorded at a station while people moved between platforms and waited for trains. Then the shrill squeal of a train as it pulled in, it’s final stop: London. The lights went up and suddenly the first model had arrived. 

In a way it was. Izmaylova managed to reference the natural elements of an isolated tropical hideaway combined with the shape of the female form for the collection flirting towards forties glamour.

Structured corsetry ran throughout the collection. Panels curved around toned natural curves to create faultless silhouettes. But Izmaylova also broke this pattern and got a little inventive with the traditions of corsetry. Some panels morphed and changed while lines cut across the body, dissecting the clothes. The different shapes signified changes in colour, usually differences in the tones of the warm pallet of gold, burnt orange, dusty pink, nutmeg and beige. 

But amongst the tight bodices there was also fluidity in the lightweight fabrics used, mainly in long rippling fishtail skirts, which flowed from the restriction on top. The use of ostrich feathers continued the softer element of the collection: transferred into fluffy jackets, skirts or even just odd bits on the garments. A tiny detail on one dress remains in my mind - a peplum of white downy peplum.

These were juxtaposed against hard, shining Swarovski crystals, which replaced matte colour in the structured plates or peeked out from beneath draping fabrics.

A series of stand out dresses finished the collection, mainly in black with long wispy chiffon skirts and trains billowed past us.

We caught up with Shingai, the lead singer and guitarist from the Noisettes just after the show, just as she was rushing out to prepare for her performances at fashion week parties. Donned in a black Izmaylova creation herself, the musician talked to us about last season and how she and her team rushed around Paris and not being able to take it all in.

This season they made the decision to focus on the music and take it slow, the Izmaylova show however was one she did not want to miss! As for her favourite piece from the collection? 'The long black silk dress with the ruffles around the neck'. We here at VFS can't wait to see her strutting her stuff in SS12.

Text: Rosanna Cole
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