Krystof Strozyna Spring Summer 2012
|Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden|
It was 2:00pm, hair and make up was manic, hairspray clouds filling the back room, models being prepped, clothes flying everywhere, and yet somehow the person in the centre was totally cool, collected, and, well ready! I managed to grab hold of him just before the show and ask him how he was feeling, to which he replied simply 'fine', fine calm before the storm, fine not fine, we shall never know but he was ready. Was there anyone he was looking forward to seeing at his show? “Susie Bubble would be amazing...” he said, and 30 minutes later there she was. Front and centre. However she wasn't the only person to grace his collection with their presence, also spotted early on were Sugababe Jade, in super high gold wedge heels, Vivienne Westwood model muse Tolula Adeyemi, Zara Martin and Diana Vickers, the latter two whom when I spoke to after were singing Strozynas praises.
This season Krystof Strozyna drew inspiration from Navy uniforms, the sea and paradise island with a twist on his trademark style. Famed for making women look like godesses with his body-con silk draped masterpieces, this season he added denim to his repertoire; to the great excitement of the onlookers. It was all a very sudden affair, people chatting, runway hopping to find seats and it began, to the beat of 'Unai – A Love Moderne'. Models graced the runway in a palette that ranged from mint green to hot pink, a collaboration of camel, cream and black.
These are the clothes you will always fall back on, the crepe silks; an evening out, the boyfriend blazers; a day at work, the slightly fitted denim jacket; all day every day. Key pieces remain in the safety net of what Strozyna is best known for but this season it was all about dressing for every occasion. The contrast between the hair and make-up; kept clean and simple, didn't deter the eye from the garments.
The sharp cuts of the signature figure hugging skirts and classic mini dresses were complemented with the soft raw edge draped panels which flew in and out of seams, caressing the figure and creating a sense of sensuality. Mixing up the run through was a touch of what felt like a 70s homage; the high waist, skin tight floor scraping bell bottom light wash denim jean and a camel silk shirt with darker tone button stand. With a touch of lilac drape, and a stunning navy double breasted boyfriend blazer to finish, the collection once again felt like a storming success. Calm before the storm? I hope the storm keeps rolling.
I managed to grab a flustered Krystof post-show about plans for the future:
“Well next season hopefully I would like to show again, I don't know yet what I will do exactly in terms of the collection but it should be okay.” As for Krystof and VFS “Yeah I hope so hopefully, it's really amazing to work with [VFS] and the team is amazing, everyone is really helpful here.”
Text: Madeleine Ayers