COLLECTION| Pam Hogg S/S13
After much anticipation following her growing mainstream recognition, Pam Hogg’s collection for Spring/Summer ’13 at Vauxhall Fashion Scout was greeted with sea of excited curiousity. With the menacing title, ‘Save Our Souls’, intrigue was acute as the lights dimmed and the show commenced.
Writhing and undulating down the catwalk, the first model made a dramatic entrance; scantily wrapped in bandage-like material, and brandishing two small flash lights. The meaning behind the collection’s title began to present itself to the fascinated audience; the lights, being reminiscent of distress signals, and the combination of the bandages and movement that so accurately represented the painful fragility of a ‘Soul’ in distress.
At this point, Alice Dellal entered the catwalk, wearing a completely backless, white apron-dress; composed with an austere sheer fabric. Consequent models sported outfits of a similar clinical theme; each one demonstrating the effectiveness of statement zips and safety pins in contributing decor to an outfit, rather than being purely functional. Furthermore, the inclusion of these elements referenced Hogg’s signature punk style within the collection.
Bold colours and heavier lycra-textures were slowly integrated, in shapes and geometric designs reminiscent of her Autumn/Winter ’12 Collection at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. The sharply defined colours were offset with fluid capes, which caught the light as they moved and presented the models as other-worldly; an army of extra-terrestrials. Coinciding with this transition in theme, Dellal appeared again, with an all-in-one aviator suit; created by using a metallic PVC, which had then been accesorised with blue zips.
The full progression of the collection appeared to be complete, when models clad in pale-pink ostentatious ruffles and dresses saturated with sequins, began pacing the catwalk; almost as if some relief had been given to the ‘Soul’ who required ‘Saving’ at the outset of the show. However, the final resolve came when Alice Dellal, in the final look, stepped onto the catwalk for the last time. A stark contrast to the beginning pieces, her ensemble featured the black cage of a skirt, complete with exposed ribbing and sheer fabric adornments. A similar cage-like headpiece fanned-out above her; completing the look. As she danced and sashayed her way down the catwalk, a full circle seemed to have been completed.
The collection once again demonstrated Hogg’s unique proficiency as a designer, but also as a poet; the progression of the catwalk, telling a story that kept onlookers captivated throughout.
Text by Abigail Gurney-Read (@AbbyGurneyRead)
Images by Kevin Chesnais and Asia Werbel