COLLECTION| Ones to Watch SS14: Hannah Williams, Helen Lawrence and Renli Su
This season the Fashion Scout, Ones To Watch platform has named Hannah Williams, This season the Fashion Scout, Ones To Watch platform has named Hannah Williams, Helen Lawrence and Renli Su as the brightest emerging designers for SS14.
Whilst Hannah Williams has already captured international media attention as winner of the Graduate Fashion Week Innovation and Wommenswear Award, Central Saint Martins graduate Helen Lawrence received her design training under the influential hands of both Mark Fast and Alexander McQueen and Renli Su has graduated from both London College of Fashion and the highly prestigious China Central Academy of Fine Arts – each designers accolades demonstrating the sheer talent of this years selection.
Opening the show we saw Helen Lawrence’s trademark unconventional fabrics and innovative cutting techniques steal the spotlight, through a palette of grey, black and lime; with elements of soft pink. Her interest in exploring the possibilities of materials within fashion was reminiscent in each design, as was her early interest in print technology. Translucent PVC was met by textured knitwear and bare flesh, with the deconstruction of tailoring a key theme in this collection.
As the foot-stomping, upbeat music by Pete Frost exploded into the room, it was clear that Hannah Williams collection was going to be a sensation. The UCA Epsom graduate and Graduate Fashion Week Innovation and Womenswear Award winner wowed the crowd with looks of moulded silicon, glossy pastel colours and textured fabrics. Her pieces were both intriguing and aesthetically pleasing.
Inspired by Daniel Arshams sculptural work, Hannah combine sculpture with fashion. Moulding techniques were used to give the illusion of seams, pockets, and statement 1920s jewellery on the designs, creating moulded garments and beautiful, rare designs. A silicon jacket embossed with illusion seams and statement jewellery? No, your eyes didn’t deceive you. Traditional- no. Breathtaking- yes.
Having studied textiles at A-level, Williams is a huge fan of experimentation and this really shows through in her S/S ‘14 collection- it was like seeing her imagination sashaying down the catwalk. Keep a stylish eye out for this young designer- she has a shining future ahead of her.
Closing the Ones To Watch showcase, we saw Renli Su’s collection titled ‘The Tranquility of the Working Class’. Inspired by the lifestyles of nomadic people, particularly those in Central Asia, Renli’s hand stitched collection showcased woven details, frayed textures and delicately crocheted headwear through an earthy palette. The collection was uniformed through it’s military undertone, androgynous cuts and heavy textured fabrics, with culture a key theme throughout.
By Georgia Hathaway, @GeorgiaHathaway and Brooke McCord @BrookeMcCord
Photography by Jamike Latif @JamikeLatif