EXHIBITION| Kiev Showcase at Fashion Scout London
The Exhibition at Fashion Scout SS15 today plays host to the five designers from the Kiev Showcase, four returning from Ukraine, Lera Leshchova, Anton Belinsky, Anna K and Yasya Minochkina, and a first-time exhibiting designer from Kazakhstan, Zherebtsov.
Lera Leshchova, returning for her third season at Fashion Scout, presented ‘Future’ - a colourful collection perfect for spring, sprigged with handmade blooms by Taiaaiia, and delicate pastel fringing. From the huge tragedies currently happening in Ukraine, Leshchova hopes to bring peace and hope for the future of Ukraine, reflected in ice blue and crisp white shades. Cut-out tweeds reveal silver chains and hanging pockets – think Chanel, but street. Acid citrus hues or green and orange are swathed in sheer organza, while a stained-glass effect waistcoat in dye and glitter couldn’t be more positive.
Anton Belinsky plays with a bright graphic-led brand of urban sportswear, where cropped black sweatshirts and hoodies are emblazoned with primary coloured hand motifs. Trench coats and cotton jackets also feature the accusing finger, practical materials with unexpectedly round necks and undone hemlines. Denim was undone for knee-length loose skirts and capes, unrestricted shapes for the active Belinsky woman.
Anna K continues the graphic theme, showing her cartoon inspirations through illustrated eye prints, primary crayon colours and graphic stripes. Grey sweatshirts are encircled in red and white roadworks tape, while weather maps are splashed across tops in simple black lines. A standout piece includes fashion related illustrations in strike-through circles, including a cartoon female’s slogan ‘I am not a blogger’ t-shirt. Shapes were simple, but some surprising – when followed down the garment, one crisp collar did not lead to a button down shirt, but instead a sweatshirt. Perspex box clutches also were stamped with slogans such as ‘Fashion Circus’, ‘Luxury is a Discipline’ and ‘Belle Du Jour’. All in all, a collection full of character sure to appeal to a sense of sartorial humour.
Yasya Minochkina’s sporty eveningwear in highlighter brights was reminiscent of Christopher Kane neon bandage dresses, durable mesh unexpectedly lined with black silk. The form-fitting high tech fabrics are definitely athletically influenced, but are designed to take you from straight from work to evening socialising, worn with both trainers or heels. Mesh bra tops and split-front mesh skirts edged in neon are mix and match separates. The tough, confident exterior of the clothing belies the feminine silk inside, a secret slice of luxury for the wearer. Further femininity is injected through 60s florals in trousers and shift dresses, where the quality fabric is not digitally printed, but instead handstitched. With no need for steaming, Minochkina’s pieces are intended for a fast paced, jet set lifestyle.
Finally, Kazakhstan based Zherebtsov pulls together 70s prints and American football furs in a collection that somehow works for Zherebtsov’s new urban woman. Combining elements of glamour, sport and street, red, navy and white racer stripes edge trousers and pockets in a purple and ochre retro print, bringing vintage bang up to date. 70s style chubby furs with baseball style numbering and monogrammed gold lame bomber jackets, plus matching cami dresses, show a range of textures for a new take on vintage styling.
See the Kiev Showcase designers at the Exhibition until 6pm today.
By Isabella Silvers, (@izzymks).
Photographs by Elizabeth Hodson.