Rocky Star’s Autumn/Winter 17 collection is a powerful display of self-expression with three distinct parts, the pieces seamlessly moving and fading into the next: light, feminine florals, followed by dark ethereal tones, and finally polished through structured black and white garments.

Changing the face of Indian fashion, Rocky Star began his career as a critically acclaimed costume designer for Bollywood films, with over 300 films to his name. Star’s exploration into detailing, construction, and finish has led to successful showcases at the Fashion Weeks in both Milan and London. 

The collection began by channelling a fresh, floral aesthetic with feminine silhouettes constructed from layers of sheer chiffon, appliquéd lace, and pearl buttons, embracing the contour of each model’s figure. Rocky’s pieces shift the boundaries of intricate textiles by showcasing daring micro-mini dresses, juxtaposing Indian skill and tradition with a more dominant, unabashed Western attitude.

Darker, printed silks and chiffons are a theme in the collection, where pleats of baroque and Indian print are blocked together, firstly embellished with the lace similar to the previous pieces on the sleeves, and on the later pieces, the accents handcrafted from gold beading. Autumn palettes were a strong motif with browns, faux furs and wool scarfs. The pieces switch between empire line dresses to shorter skirts, with delicate floor length robes, and finally to micro-mini dresses. 

As the finale drew closer, the inspiration confidently changed with more structured pieces using unique fabrics. Fans of black and white chiffon lace as well as ombre jumpers with faux fur sleeves and lace underlays concluded the show.

Words by Laura Cawdron

Photography by Tiffany Lin